STORY HIGHLIGHTS
- Montreal is the second-largest city of French-speaking natives in the world after Paris
- The rocky islands of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon off the coast of Canada are still part of France
- French is the first language of some residents of Cajun country in Louisiana
Here are five enclaves in North America where French culture thrives:
Montreal,Quebec
Settled by French fur
traders and later captured by the British, Montreal grew into a
bilingual city with dual identities. And while myriad other tonguesare
spoken thanks to a thriving immigrant population, it remains the
second-largest Francophone city in the world after Paris. You'll hear
bonjours and ca vas in every borough, but the most solidly French
neighborhoods are east of Boulevard St.-Laurent -- the de facto border
that separates it from the largely English-speaking west side.
Linger over an espresso at one of the terrasses (patios) that line Rue St. Denis in the Latin Quarter. Then head to the vaunted L'Express,
a classic Parisian bistro in Plateau Mont-Royal, where everything from
the zinc bar to the tight quarters to the duck confit will spark
flashbacks of Montmartre.
Go for: The FrancoFolies is a festival celebrating Francophone music with some 250 live acts. June 14-22.
Quebec City, Quebec
Founded by French
explorer Samuel de Champlain more than 400 years ago, Quebec City, like
Montreal, fell to the British crown a century and a half later. Its
Gallic culture, however, remained firmly intact. Today, nearly 95% of
the residents are native French speakers. The city's gabled roofs,
winding streets and ramparts conjure an Old World feel. Vieux-Quebec
(Old Town) is the only fortified city in North America north of Mexico.
Get the full scoop on Quebec's French heritage at the Musée de la Civilization,
where a new exhibition tells the story of Francophones who pulled up
stakes to settle in North America with interactive features such as a
hallway meant to evoke a departure dock. Around the corner, the cozy
Café Le St. Malo, with its exposed brick walls and roaring hearth fire,
serves up the kind of rustic fare you find in the French countryside,
such as cassoulet (a one-pot dish of white beans and meat such as pork
sausage and duck confit) and boudin noir (blood sausage).
Go for: Quebecois celebrate the arrival of their ancestors in Canada at the Nouvelle France festival. August 7-11.
New Orleans, Louisiana
Claimed by France as
part of the Louisiana Territory in 1682, La Nouvelle-Orléans rose from a
swamp on the bend of the Mississippi River to become a strategic port
city.
Named for the Regent of
France, Philippe, Duc d'Orleans, the original town developed around what
is now known as Jackson Square. After the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, a
mix of nationalities flooded the city, creating the unique
French/Creole-infused melting pot that is the Big Easy today.
Nonetheless, remnants of
its French heritage are evident throughout. For one, snacking on
beignets and café au lait at the venerable Café du Monde in the French
Quarter is as de rigueur for tourists as taking home Mardi Gras beads.
History buffs who can't
make it to the Louvre to see one of Napoleon Bonaparte's famous marble
bathtubs -- he supposedly signed the Louisiana Purchase while in the tub
-- can book Suite 730 at the 100-year-old Le Pavillon Hotel, near the French Quarter, to take a plunge in one said to have been owned by Napoleon (there are three total).
A short walk away on Esplanade Avenue, the Degas House,
a bed and breakfast and former home of artist Edgar Degas, hosts
"Bottles and Brushes" evenings, where amateur artists can drink wine,
paint and soak up the atmosphere in the studio of the French
Impressionist master.
Go for: In a nod to New
Orleans' Gallic roots, French statesman Charles de Gaulle gave the city a
Joan of Arc statue, an exact replica of one that stands in Orleans,
which today presides over the French Market and is feted annually with a
parade. January 6.
Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, French territory
A remnant of France's
exploits in Canada, these rocky islands some 15 miles off the coast of
Newfoundland were deeded to the republic in 1816 under the second Treaty
of Paris after a century-long tussle with England. Settlers eager to
work in the islands' rich cod fishery came from Acadie, Brittany and
Normandy in France and the Basque country, which includes parts of Spain
and France. Another boom came during Prohibition, when smuggling
spirits to the U.S. made some islanders rich.
Today, the archipelago -- a "territorial collectivity" of France -- retains much of the character of its mother country.
Most merchants close up
shop at midday to lunch with their families at home. The baguettes and
croissants are the real deal. The euro is the currency of the land,
though many businesses accept Canadian and U.S. dollars.
You'll find the most
action on the tiniest and most populated island, Saint-Pierre. With its
colorful clapboard houses, narrow streets, classic cafes and Peugeots
zipping around, it's Greenland-meets-Normandy. Join the locals as they
break for la collation, a light meal, in the late afternoon; duck into Délices de Joséphine on Rue General LeClerc for a spot of Mariage Frères tea and a Paris-worthy pastry.
Go for: Bastille Day,
the anniversary of the storming of the infamous prison in Paris in 1789,
is celebrated at Place du Général de Gaulle in St. Pierre. July 14.
Cajun Country, Louisiana
Expelled by the British
from what are now the Canadian Maritime provinces and northern Maine
during the French and Indian War (1754-1763), many Acadians settled in
south Louisiana, spawning a rich culture and their own dialect, Cajun
French, that is still very much alive today.
In some pockets, such as
the small town of Arnaudville, French rules -- on street signs, in
radio broadcasts, political ads and even as the sole language of some
residents.
At the Vermilionville Living History Museum and Folklife Park
in Lafayette Parish, a replica of an Acadian village depicts life circa
1765-1890. For a modern taste of Cajun life, landmark Lafayette
restaurants Randol's and Prejean's host live Cajun music and specialize in local favorites such as crawfish étouffée.
Go for: Unlike the
glittery spectacle in New Orleans, Mardi Gras in Cajun Country has
changed little since its early days. Revelers on horseback dress up in
costumes made from flour sacks or burlap, and ride from house to house
collecting ingredients -- including live chickens -- for a communal pot
of gumbo. February 12.
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